Friday, August 16, 2013

Fujinomiya and Kawaguchiko.... Fujisan (^^)

August 14, 2013.  I'm doing good (^^) 1.5 attempts of posts in one day! yippie! Upon arrival back to Nagoya, we rest for the night and the next day off to one of the city close to Fujinomiya 5th station for Mt. Fuji.  My reason to come to Japan in summer is because Mt Fuji only open for climbing in July and August.  Definitely is a dangerous mountain out of season and even in season shouldn't be underestimated.  Mt.Fuji is about 3776 meters above the sea level, and it's the highest peak in Japan.  Of course, there are higher and harder mountains to climb, and this is the highest mountain I ever climb so far and it was worth the tiredness definitely!
Fujinomiya station 
My first attempt to ascend mt Fuji was through Fujinomiya trail.  To get to the summit, there are 4 trails to choose from.  From Tokyo direction, most commonly taken is the Yoshida trail which can be reach from Kawaguchiko.  From Nagoya, the closest trail to take is Fujinomiya.  With out JR pass, the trip to Fujinomiya station could be long without shinkansen (bullet train) and expensive with shinkansen.  We used seshun juuhachikippu (special tickets sold for holiday seasons in Japan, only valid for JR lines) to get to Fujinomiya station by JR train, however, few transfer of train required along the way. From Nagoya station, take JR Tokai line bound for Toyohashi and get off at Toyohashi station, then transfer to JR Tokaido bound for Hamamatsu and get off at Hamamatsu station.  From there, look for JR Tokaido bound for Shizuoka, ride all the way to Shizuoka.  From Shizuoka, continue on JR Tokaido bound for Atami or Numazu, stop at Fuji station.  From there, transfer to JR Minobe line bound for Nishifujinomiya, stop at Fujinomiya station.
Once we got there, we went to look for our hostel right away.  VERY hard to find... !  We had to catch the bus there, which we missed the stop by one, then had to walk back.  Then, although the view of tea plantations surround the area was gorgeous, we were having a hard time to look for the place since the only sign of which way the hostel is was waaaaay at the beginning of the road, which branches off to different way :(  Eventually we found it after asking a local person, typical small community, everybody knows each other..... and the hostel sign was omg very very small :D
The owner of the hostel was an old Japanese couple in their late 80s.  The obaachan (granny) spoke english quite well, and the ojiisan (granpa) was a little on the hard of hearing side :D Very very very pleasant couple! They also had many many books about Canada in their place.  Their place is old, the bedroom floor is laid with tatami mat, definitely traditional Japanese room.  Their hospitality was amazing, they turned computer on for the internet (old computer :D) just because we asked whether they have wifi or not.. I guess they assumed we really wanna use the internet.... hehe, very sweet couple... we used the computer anyway to look at history of their hostel.  Even though they're in their late 80s, they're in very good shape,  however, taking care of a hostel become too much for them, so apparently this is the last year they're accepting guests.
Green tea plantation around the hostel area
The next day, we had to take my husband to hospital for some urgent care, and the ojiisan was very sweet to give us a ride to the minor emergency clinic.  There, the doctor insisted my husband shouldn't go up mt Fuji.  So we all went back to Nagoya.
When we get back to Nagoya I quickly plan my next attempt, which this time I chose to go to Kawaguchiko 5th station.  Reason for not going to Fujinomiya again it was because accomodation was quite scarce in the area.  This youth hostel owned by the elderly couple was the only cheap youth hostel I could find around the area, and my husband could not find anything else even when searching using Japanese keywords.
To Kawaguchiko city, we decided to hop on the bus.  Not much of difference in price, and no transfers required.  Took around 5 hours from Nagoya and cost 7000 yen per person for return ticket, we used Meitesu bus.  The service was scarce, bus leaving from Nagoya only at 7am, and returning bus from Kawaguchiko was only 5pm.  Bus rides in Japan is very easy and convenient.  Driver always make quick stop at parking areas where you can have your food, go to washroom, and cigarette break.  The parking areas provide more than decent food.  Convenient stores not only provide your usual junk food, but also somewhat healthy (compared to what we have in north american convenient stores) choices such as seaweed salad, sushi, spaghetti, soba noodles etc.  Some parking areas even offering proper food such as ramen (Japanese style noodles with soup), soba (hot and cold), etc.  I definitely hasn't seen a bus or truck driver with a chubby belly..... mabe cuz resting areas don't provide triple triple cheese burger with extra large fries? :D
Yes... more green tea plantation (^^)
Upon arrival to Kawaguchiko station, we right away put our backpacks away and head back to the station to find information regarding bus to the Kawaguchiko 5th station. The bus to 5th station leaves from Kawaguchiko train/bus station somewhat frequently and cost 4000 yen for return ticket.
Our hostel in Fujinomiya
Since we have plenty of time for the day, we decided to do a mini trail somewhere.  Many beautiful waterfall around Fuji 5 lakes, and I wanted to visit the closest one to where we are.  The tourist information center recommended Haha no Shirataki, which is a 10 minutes bus ride from the station, stop at Kawaguchiko kyoku mae.  On the way to the waterfall we passed Kawaguchiko Asama shrine.  Surrounded by big trees and quietness, this shrine was quite a joy to visit.  We continued on to our hike, on the way there, signs to the waterfall were only in Japanese.  When we got to the double torii gate on the way to the waterfall, the road splits into right and left, with sign to the waterfall pointed to the left.  The left is further, and not at scenic as if you take the road to your right and keep going straight.  Definitely just a 'walk', not much of a hike at all, but absolutely pleasant surrounded by trees in that scorching hot day.  We got to the waterfall within 20 minutes or less, it was a small waterfall with a shrine beside it.  No one to ask the history of the little shrine there and I couldn't seem to find anything on google.
Semi (cicada) only males chirp (^^)... veeery loud 
Before I ended the day, I decided the take a short walk to Kawaguchi lake.  It was about less than 10 minutes walk from the station and many activities such as pedal boat etc on the lake.  Supposedly a good spot to take picture of mt Fuji, however due to the hazy day mtFuji decided only to reveal its silhouette.  Mt. Fuji also visible right behind the station....
Before I talk about my climb, few tips for the climb..... DO NOT WEAR HIGH HEELS! kidding.... it would just be ridiculous if one actually did, but you never know since I saw girls went to some places I would never wear my high heels to :D Okay..... back on track.... Do wear footwear with good grips, preferably a boots, but do not wear brand new footwear! Borrow from your buddy, or you're better off wearing runners that's comfortable.  Your feet will get blisters even with old shoes, but definitely brand new boots that's not broken in yet will give you grief! So don't go out buying expensive hiking boots because broken in ones maybe more friendly to your feet... Boots preferable because descending on a steep sandy/rocky trail you can avoid rocks from getting into your shoes.  Hiking poles useful but don't go out buying expensive ones just for this.... up at the top, you will find your hiking poles will not be used as much cuz you have to be a bit of a spider crawling on the rocks.  To descend, definitely hiking poles will have brace yourself so the impact not so much on your knees, but I descended with out it, and my knees were fine.  Maybe zigzagging helped a little with the impact.  Buy a decent headlight.... You will be hiking in the dark, so bring good quality headlight! Bring water! As much as you can carry, along with food, and definitely bring layers of warm clothing! It gets very chilly up there plus the windchill, and please please please don't underestimate the cold even though it's 36+C in the city.  Temperature does dropped significantly at night on that elevation... and the wind! It's very hard to warm up after 8.5 station because the ascend was very slow as the air gets thinner, hence the tiredness and people will slow down and rest often (yes! REST OFTEN!!Air gets thinner and it's best to conserve energy) Also bring rain poncho just in case of rain. And one last thing you have to bring......DETERMINATION TO GET TO THE TOP! :D So, don't go out and buy all the expensive stuff and hiking gears, the trail is tough but do able without expensive hiking equipment. I met a guy who made it up there only with an old runner and warm clothing..... :)
Kawaguchiko Asama shrine.  From here, if you walk to the left you can go to
the waterfall
The next day, we checked out at 10 after breakfast and started the long wait till 6 pm for the bus to Kawaguchiko 5th station.  It probably be better if I would've paid for 2 nights, slept in all day before started climbing.... Climbing up a mountain when you've been awake for almost 24 hrs was not a good idea :D I put some excess stuff such as soap, towels, and dirty clothing in a coin locker, cuz they're not gonna come in handy up on the mountain.  We caught the bus at 6 pm and took around 40 minutes to get to the 5th station.  There, we spent around 1+ hrs hanging around the station to get used to the altitude a little.  We started climbing around 8 pm
At first, the trail was a walk in the park... literally :D .  With somewhat of a moderate incline, you really felt like you want to run straight up to the 6th station.  However, common sense is..... honey, there still more of this to do so settle down :D. One thing for sure, follow the crowd.  The trail will branch off, with some are descending trail and bulldozer trail, and in the dark it's very easy to lose your way.  Reaching 6th station was nothing and definitely by the time you reach 7th station you still feel like you can run up there.  The trail definitely didn't get easier.... It gotten somewhat harder after 7th station, and by the time you reach 8th station definitely you feel like you need someone to pamper you  with massage and warm green tea.  Well, ain't gonna happen :D but would be nice :D
After the 8th station, the trail gotten tougher, and basically you need to be a little spidey crawling on the rocks.  It was steep, and definitely you can't use your hiking pole... I saw people put them away as soon as they saw the steep incline of rocks :D At the 8.5 station, you felt like the station was teasing you..... that you're only half way through after all that.... :D hence why I refused to take his picture :D.however, it was great to sit at the 8.5 station even only for a bit.
When we reached the 9th station, tiredness had clouded us over that we somehow fell asleep there.  I remember myself feeling like I was sleepwalking before reaching the 9th station. When I woke up, just in time for me to see the thin line of horizon where the sun will rise.  I woke Vivian up quickly, and we started hiking up again.  As soon as I saw the tori gate closing in, I used my last bit of energy to hurried pass everyone who were lining up to get to the summit.  Definitely, the view up there well worth the energy I had to spend to get up there.  The whole area underneath was nothing but a blanket of clouds, with the sun slowly emerging from the horizon.  To be above the clouds.... definitely an experience!  One amazing thing I saw was, as the sun emerging, the rays looks just like Japan's Rising Sun picture.... Now I see where that was coming from! This is definitely one of those maybe once in a life time experience and just like childbirth, I forgot the pain of hiking up the mountain and two days after I found myself thinking... 'hey! I can so do that again!' :D (however, I didn't think of the same of childbirth.... hence I only have one child after 13 years :D) Not much words could describe, except for amazing beauty and a memorable experience that certainly I would like others to try.
Vivian was an amazing kid.  Despite the tiredness, coldness, and getting an earful once a while from me for going to fast and almost getting separated from me, he was very patient and persevere till he made it to the top.  Not a single whine or complain came out of his mouth, only when I ask what's wrong he gave me simple answer of 'Tired'.  Well.... understandably so..... Great kid.....
The descent was not long, took us around 2 hours and a bit.  The descending trail was different, this one was very sandy and rocky.  As soon as the sun risen it gotten warm quite fast.  One common problem people were having was knee pain from descending a steep sandy/rocky trail.  Some uses hiking pole, some went zigzag down the trail... less impact that way maybe.  Definitely a pair of boots comes into use as it will prevent rocks and sand from getting into your feet.  Hat and sunglasses also comes in handy... no shades definitely!
Coming back to the station felt great, now comes the long wait for the 5 pm bus... the only bus for the day leaving for Nagoya.  We got to the station around 8 pm, I washed up (this is when the towel I left became handy), had some coffee while Vivian passed out on the bench from exhaustion.  When it was time to board the bus finally, oh was it ever felt good!!!!
Finally, arriving back to my husband's home was relieving since I've been longing for it all day.  It was not an easy climb, definitely you have to be in somewhat of a good shape, but definitely do-able as long as you ascend slowly and don't forget your determination to reach the top at home :)

Still Kawaguchiko Asama Shrine.... nice, I actually took pictures without
bunch of umbrellas or people's head on the pic :D 


















When you see this, turn right instead of left (even though sign say
waterfall to the right) for a more scenic walk

Trekking trail to Haha no shirataki (waterfall)


See? More scenic (^^) also nice when it's scorching 35+ degrees :D



Haha no Shirataki





Kawaguchi lake




Hazy view of mt Fuji.... this was probably most visible
during my stay

Sunset at Kawaguchiko 5th station

Mt Fuji silhouette at dusk
At this point, adrenalin still pumping and you feel like you wanna just run
to the top, but best advice to save your energy cuz it won't get any easier
at all :D

Fuji Subaru 5th station
So far, arriving at 7th station not that exciting yet.... 
Awwwh :( ... no rest? By 8th station, you feel like you can kiss the 8th
station.... no picture for 8.5 station.... that was a tease (-_-)  because from
8th station, the wind suddenly blowing so strong, the trail gotten very rocky
and steep, the air gotten colder and definitely the air gotten thinner,
 hence the headache and tiredness

.
By the time you arrive at 9th station, you are overwhelmed by tiredness
(especially when you've been awake for almost 24 hrs now) and wish some
starship just beam you up to the summit :D
Crowd waiting for sunrise.  We got there just in time to waited only
few minutes



The gorgeous sunrise.... what a breathtaking view... the soft fluffy layer
of cloud just complete the amazing and breathtaking view up from the summit.
Definitely worth the pain of going up!


I don't know how to set my camera, I guess with DSLR you might be able to
capture the sunrays that exactly looks like the japan's rising sun picture.
Definitely a Japan's sunrise! 


See? it's possible to garden here... (^^)




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